Pork Is in the Air: Memphis in May

More than 100 teams will compete this weekend in the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest.

By Sally Walker Davies for MSN City Guides

It’s said that Memphis is the buckle of the Bible Belt, and sure enough, it seems as if there is a church on every corner in this city on the Mississippi.

In matters of faith, folks in Memphis are diverse. In matters of food, however, there is a temple at which almost every Memphian prays, especially during the month of May: the temple of the pig.

You can’t be in Memphis the third weekend of May without catching a tantalizing whiff of tons of pork being slow-cooked; the aromatic smoke wafts through the city, fragrant evidence of a real-life foodie fantasy. The occasion is the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, part of the annual Memphis in May International Festival.

The month-long event celebrates the city’s food and musical heritage, as well as honoring a foreign country—this year’s is Spain. The festivities wrap up with the Sunset Symphony, where the city gathers on the riverfront for an alfresco evening of live classical music along the river.

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• Related: Take a tour of the regional capitals of American barbecue
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The Beale Street Music Festival kicked off this year’s shindig, with more than 60 acts performing over three days, followed by an international festival the second weekend of May.

But for carnivores, the main event is the super bowl of swine, the World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, held May 17-19. More than 100 chosen teams compete; while the pork is slow-roasted, the teams keep busy by handing out samples in the people’s choice contest or showing folks their cooking methods.

A few things to know before you go: The teams cannot serve their food to the general public. The only exception is during the people’s choice contest, which is $3 for a five-sample tasting. All of the cooking tents host invitation-only parties; those not on the guest list—the general public—must make do with barbecue and other food vendors that sell to the public.

Finally, on May 26, it’s time to spread out the blankets and break out the picnic baskets for the Sunset Symphony. New this year will be an hour-long air show by the Commemorative Air Force, followed by a symphonic serenade by the Memphis Symphony Orchestra and fireworks.

For more information or to buy tickets, go to MemphisinMay.org

Other BBQ Contests
Can’t make it to Memphis for this year’s World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest? Try one of these other tempting events.

What: The International Bar-B-Q Festival
Where: Owensboro, Ky.
When: Second weekend in May (May 11-12, 2007)
On the menu: Lots of lamb, from roasted mutton to simmering burgoo stew—a Kentucky concoction made from lamb and vegetables. Beauty pageants, a classic car show and crafts fair round out the annual celebration.

What:The American Royal Barbecue Contest
Where: Kansas City, Mo.
When: First weekend of October (Oct. 5-7, 2007)
On the menu: Touting itself as “World Series of Barbecue,” the American Royal is considered by many the championship game in competitive barbecue. It’s certainly among the largest, with nearly 500 teams competing in four culinary contests (including one for sauce that gave KC Masterpiece its start). Come on “Fantastic Friday,” when the grills get going; stay for the parties that last all weekend.

What:The Barbecue Festival
Where: Lexington, N.C.
When: Held annually on one of the two last Saturdays in October (Oct. 20, 2007)
On the menu: Pork and Swine Wine, created by artist Bob Timberlake and NASCAR owner Bob Childress just for the event. Folks take the train for the day from either Charlotte or Raleigh for the festival, which includes blues, country and bluegrass music, as well as a carnival and pig races.

What: The National BBQ Festival
Where: Douglas, Ga.
When: First weekend of November (Nov. 2-3 2007)
On the menu: Everything—chicken, ribs, pork, brisket, even the whole hog; more than $50,000 in cash and prizes for the winners in each category. Rummage through a giant yard sale, sample the best in the people’s choice competition or enter a pie in the sweet potato pie contest.

What: The World’s Championship Bar-B-Que Contest
Where: Houston
When: Part of the annual Houston Livestock Show & Rodeo (March 3-22, 2008)
On the menu: Brisket, chicken, pork and spareribs; a huge carnival and more than 150,000 people attending the three-day event. Cowboy up with boots and a hat and you’ll fit right in.

Bone up on everything barbecue at the Kansas City Barbeque Society Web site, www.kcbs.us.